We removed all of the lower black ground effects and painted them to match the OEM blue color before re-installing them.
Front and rear AL Priority laser jammers and NET Radar were installed, including Bluetooth and GPS.
We removed all of the lower black ground effects and painted them to match the OEM blue color before re-installing them.
Front and rear AL Priority laser jammers and NET Radar were installed, including Bluetooth and GPS.
This Toyota FJ Cruiser came to us with an OEM JBL "Premium" Sound system featuring 11 speakers. We completely redesigned and modified the system using JL Audio and Hybrid audio equipment to create a fully custom audiophile system.
We installed a Pioneer radio head unit and back up camera, along with a web-programmable radio replacement interface for seamless integration with the factory system. This displays steering wheel controls, media player, hands-free telephone, voice commands, and satellite radio modules, as well as vehicle information like performance gauges, climate controls, battery voltage, check engine codes, and more. The Audiovox SXV300V1 allowed us to connect, control, and play Sirius XM radio through the in-dash audio system.
JL Audio's Stealthbox uses a powerful 12 inch driver to deliver outstanding sound impact and fidelity without interfering with the FJ Cruiser's useful cargo space.
The JL Audio XD300/1v2 Monoblock Class D Subwoofer Amplifier is small enough to fit in the tightest spaces, yet has unprecedented efficiency and amazing power output for it's size. Paired with the JL Audio XD600/6v2 6-channel Class D System Amplifier, the pair pack a serious full range punch and allow for full bandwith Class D operation with extremely low distortion. The JL Audio TwK-D8 System Tuning digital sound processer allows us to precisely tune each individual speaker, while also adding time delays and a ten-point equalizer to each channel.
In the front doors, we installed the JL Audio C3-650 6.6" convertible system with custom brackets, delivering outstanding audio power and quality. The dash corners and rear pillars now have Hybrid Audio Legatia L3V2 small format wide-bandwith drivers, boasting unbeatable performance.
We also installed Octane Fuel Forged D509 wheels, black lug nuts, and mounted and balanced the tires. ClearPlex windshield protection was applied to the front windshield. 2" spacers were installed on the front to make the FJ Cruiser sit level. A ProClip custom charging phone holder and OEM rubber floor mats were put in before we detailed the interior and exterior.
This Mercedes Benz G63, fully converted to the Brabus G700 wide body kit, is now fully stocked with a custom Audiophile system. We installed Focal woofers with coaxial tweeters in the front and rear doors.
These include cones that are fully equipped with all the ideal qualities: lightness, rigidity and excellent damping, to deliver dynamic sound and perfect definition. The centers of the cones are equipped with a phase plug for improved sound dispersion around the vehicle. These traits also make them great for providing an extremely rich and punchy sound.
We also added a Focal center channel to the middle of the dashboard, along with two precision Beryllium inverted dome shape tweeters, which provide unrivalled treble and clarity of sound.
The JL Audio FiX-82 OEM Integration unit is specifically designed to use the OEM audio signal from the vehicle and convert it to a clean low voltage signal without any distortions. The unit also aids in maintaining all factory options, including Bluetooth, navigation, and the like. We also installed the JL Audio TwK-D8 System Tuning DSP, which is a digital sound processer that allowed us to precisely tune each individual speaker, while also adding time delays and a ten-point equalizer to each channel.
A completely custom piece was built to house the units to look sleek, streamlined, and concealed taking up the least possible amount of space.
A ProClip custom iPhone mount and holder was also installed to allow the driver easy access.
This beautiful G-Wagon left our shop with a top of the line, completely custom, banger of an Audiophile system.
We are proud to announce that we are now a preferred dealer and installation center for Scrape Armor under bumper scrape protection!
Scrape armor was born after years of working to install aftermarket parts on exotic cars, helping people personalize them inside and out. Putting cars on the lift, they saw scrapes, gouges, mangled hardware and costly damage that went undetected and untreated. The reason is simple: The sexy, low-to-the-ground front end look invites trouble. Speed bumps, parking blocks, curbs and driveways slowly scrape and chip away at the car you love so much.
Do these above images look all too familiar to you?
Scrape Armor is unlike any other vehicle protection product on the market. All Scrape Armor protection panel kits are digitally designed, and precision manufactured, ensuring that Scrape Armor will fit your car's make and model perfectly.
Each piece of Scrape Armor is made from Teklite™ low-friction coefficient polymer. Lightweight and sleek yet amazingly strong, it is engineered to expand and contract at the same rate as your bumper in any weather which helps minimize separation.
Scrape Armor features patented Glidetek™ Rail design, giving it a groove pattern that reduces the contact surface area by more than 50% yet still provides the protection needed. Less surface = less friction = maximum protection.
Scrape Armor's Eliptek™ Edge Profile ensures each piece is perfectly contoured on the front and back edges so your car won't get hung up on a parking curb or other obstacle.
No one gets into their car thinking they're going to get into an accident... until they do. Luckily, we now have dash cams! In-car technology that can be helpful to drivers in the event something goes wrong while they're behind the wheel. If you don't have one in your car already, you've probably heard about dash cams on the news. Here are 5 good reasons to have one installed:
Arguably, the most important feature of any dash cam is its video quality. Preferably, you'll want a camera that records FHD (1080p) video with its main lens. Some dash cams with dual cameras (one to record the road in front of you and one to record you driving) have lower-quality back-facing cameras, and that's not too bad as long as the video quality is at least HD (720p). Anything below that will produce pixelated images that aren't very useful.
BlackVue has set the standard in the car dash cam industry since it was established in 2007. Taking car dashboard camera technology to the next level with its Full-HD 1-channel and 2-channel dash cams, BlackVue is even now opening new possibilities for its users with BlackVue Over the Cloud. Anytime, anywhere, BlackVue Over the Cloud provides instant access to playback, remote Live View, video sharing, and peace of mind with emergency alarm notifications, location tracking, and backup of important footage.
The DR650S-1CH is a single-channel dashcam that combines performance and elegance. Although including Wi-Fi, GPS, impact and motion detection as well as Cloud connectivity, the DR650S-1CH sits elegantly under the windshield, behind the rearview mirror, without obstructing the driver's field of view.
The DR650S-2CH is a dual-channel (front + rear) dashcam that combines performance and elegance. Although including Wi-Fi, GPS, impact and motion detection as well as Cloud connectivity, the DR650S-2CH sits elegantly under the windshield, behind the rearview mirror, without obstructing the driver's field of view
The DR650S-2CH TRUCK is ideal to secure most large commercial trucks. The waterproof infrared rear camera connects to the front unit via a 20m video cable. This allows to monitor not only the road behind, but also cargo loading and unloading operations.
The BlackVue DR450 Series is all about simplicity and reliability. The DR450-1CH is a single-channel dash cam that packs Full HD video recording in a small form factor.
With its compact design, the DR450-1CH is almost invisible to the driver's eye, letting you focus on the road, knowing that you are protected.
128gb memory cards add about 10 days of recording
64gb memory cards add about 6 days of recording
16gb memory cards include about 3 days of recording
Contact us at 516-747-4114 to get a BlackVue installation quote today!
**Does not void manufactures warranty! **
There is no interruption of vehicle wires or electronics. No holes are drilled into firewalls. All electronic equipment is installed following factory requirements.
In this e-mail, we're going to discuss choosing the body shop that's right for you as well as differentiating between top notch vs. mediocre work. When choosing a body shop, the one criteria which not to use is whether they can save you your deductible. This is a tactic many shops use to get you in the door; but remember, nothing is free. The money has to come from somewhere and usually it's from the quality of the work. The first criteria to look for is someone who has your best interests at heart. Whether it's fighting with the insurance co. to get paid to do the correct job, getting you reimbursed for any aftermarket parts or getting you a rental car, they have to be on your side. That is the reason why I try to dissuade customers from going to a shop which the insurance co. recommends; it's an inherent conflict of interest. The second criteria is whether the shop performs the repairs to "industry standard" or "commercially acceptable" standards vs. "like new" or "OEM" standards? Most insurance policies are written for the repair to be "commercially acceptable" standard which is a fancy way of saying "pretty good". Personally we demand "like new" standards for our customer's cars. One needs to have a very good relationship with their body shop for them to agree to that. The third criteria is technically how the work is performed. This is constituted of numerous items:
- Does the shop use OEM or aftermarket parts? Are the parts new or used? Obviously, you always want new OEM parts, but if cost is a consideration, you have an alternative. Whether you or the ins. co. is paying for new OEM parts, just make sure there isn't a bait and switch. This is especially relevant to windshields. Remember that in most of the newer cars, the windshield is a structural part of the car.
- Does the shop fight with the insurance co. to get paid for blending the color onto the adjacent panel when it is necessary (i.e. metallic/pearl paint or damage being close to the edge of the panel)? Insurance co.'s prefer the shop to "panel paint" because it saves them money. But if the color is even a little bit off (even from fading), you may see a difference. This is an instance where the body shop should be in your corner.
- Does the shop blend clear-coat on a panel? This is a no-no! This is usually done on the quarter panel where the roof is adjoined in one piece. Even if the shop did a good job hiding it, the blend mark will eventually show up.
- Does the shop remove the bumper cover before repairing? It should always be (as well as disassembled of any grills, foglights, etc.) to eliminate any overspray on the rest of the car as well as have complete coverage with no tape lines. This is the way it is done at the factory.
- Does the shop remove the handles, trim, lights, etc. or just tape them off before painting? This is something that should always be done to prevent a "hard edge" that can eventually start flaking off. Again, this is the way it's done at the factory.
- Does the shop "back-tape" the jambs and then properly sand/polish them so there is no hard edge? When cars are painted at the factory, they are just a skeleton with no interior, so the robots spray the door jambs with the doors open so it's an even transition from the exterior of the car into the jambs. At the body shop, they don't have that luxury. So they have to properly tape inside the jamb and then sand/polish to replicate the OEM finish.
- Does the body shop purchase new OEM emblems/decals or do they put some new double-stick tape on and re-use the old ones? Again, you have an option is cost is an issue, just make sure you get what you pay for.
- Any paint protection film (AKA "Clear Bra") should be reimbursed in full by the insurance co.
- Finally, this is a pet peeve of mine. Do not let the body shop give you a "free" detail. That free detail is usually going to cost you money when you have to pay someone to polish out all the swirl marks they put on your paint. Leave the detailing to the professional detailer of your choice. The shop should polish the panel(s) they repaired though.
One final thing to worth researching is whether your insurance co. will pay for a new wheel if it is damaged or insist on getting it repaired by one of the overnight wheel places. Most of the low tier companies won't pay for a new wheel unless it's heavily damaged.
Now that you're a little familiar with the world of body shops, hopefully you won't ever need one. Now I know this is a lot of informantion to digest at once and if you're ever find yourself needing a body shop and feel over-whelmed, please feel free to give us a call and we'll help in any way we can. If you have any follow-up questions, again, feel free to call us. Until next time, may the wind be always at your back!
Whether it’s your cars’ door that’s been keyed in a parking lot, a serious accident or restoring a car, having a good body shop on your side is like having a good attorney; hopefully you won’t need one, but if you do you want the best. Although it still has some aura of mystery, the definition of good body work is very simple; after it is completed, no one can tell. In other words, if someone tells you off the cuff they like the paintwork on your bumper, it wasn’t that good. Along with the aesthetics, the structural integrity has to be maintained to the factory specs. We’re going to cover the whole gamut of the body shop field ranging from your rights as the insured to choosing a top notch shop to being competent to distinguish good work from mediocre.
Let’s start with the scenario of you being involved in an accident. This is usually a very traumatic and emotional time, but you have to keep a level head because what you do at that moment will have an impact on the settlement with the insurance companies. You should have a check list as well as knowing your rights under New York state law.
- Make sure everyone is ok and contact the proper authorities. Move everyone to a safe area away from traffic.
- Do not argue with the other party (just put away that brick you were going to crack over the other driver’s head) or admit guilt. Just exchange pertinent information.
- If the other party tells you then don’t want to call the police and would rather pay you out of pocket; call the police. They usually have a lowball amount in their head and will never pay the real amount it would take to repair your car correctly. Then it is your responsibility to prove your case. In over 20 years of being in business, only once have we seen a person pay the real amount it took to repair the car they hit.
- Take pictures from different angles of the accident. Do not share these pictures with the other party. BTW, this is why we recommend having dash cams installed in you car. They’re your witness in case anything happens.
- Contact a towing service of your choice to transport your car to the body shop of your choice or your home (have the contact info. of the towing co. with you in the glove compartment). If you’re on a highway and have to use an official designated towing service, have them transport your car to your body shop or your home. Do not let them “steer” you to the shop they recommend (whom they difinitely get a kick-back from).
- Insist that the towing co. only uses the factory supplied towing hook to winch the car (it is in the factory tool kit). The hook screws into the front bumper or behind the rear license plate. I’ve seen many instances of cars having their suspension components bent from improper towing. And obviously, always have your car transported on a flatbed (a kneeling flatbed is best).
- You may legally designate your repair shop to negotiate a fair claim settlement with your insurance company. This is where you want someone who has your best interests at heart. Just think of it as having a lawyer represent you. We just repaired a Porsche Turbo where the initial estimate was written at another body shop which was suggested by the insurance carrier. After we towed the car to our body shop and got done fighting with the insurance company, the car owner received a supplemental check for an additional $7,200 (this was what it took to repair the car “correctly”).
- Do NOT ever go to drive-in claims center. Although they are marketed as convenient and quick, in many instances it will cost you money in the end – and that’s very inconvenient.
- An insurance company cannot tell you to go to its designated shop to get your damaged car inspected. If additional “hidden” damage is found after disassembly, the insurance company has two business days to re-inspect after proper notification.
- The insurance company must negotiate in good faith. You are entitled to a prompt and fair settlement to repair your car to its pre-accident condition. This includes parts of like, kind and quality equal to original equipment.
- You are not required to get more than one estimate for another party (even though you always hear about needing 3 estimates).
- Don’t let the insurance company steer you to one of their “approved” or “in network” shops – it is illegal for them to do so. These shops are part of their DRP (direct repair program), but also creatively marketed as a “Concierge Service” or “Xpress Service”. Under Section 167C of the New York State Law, YOU HAVE THE RIGHT to have your car repaired at a registered shop of your choice; your insurance company cannot direct you otherwise. If your insurer insists that you need to get your car inspected or repaired at a particular place, do not get into an argument but just contact the Insurance Department at (800) 342-3736.
- Except for window glass repair, an insurance company cannot recommend a particular shop unless you ask for a recommendation.
- If the damages to your car are over $1,000.00, you must fill out a D.M.V. Form 104.
- An insurance company cannot tell you that you have to repair your vehicle in order to get paid. If you have damage, the insurer must pay the cost of repairing that damage, whether or not you choose to repair the vehicle. These New York state restrictions apply when a consumer files a claim with his or her own auto insurance company under his or her own policy. Claims filed with a third-party insurance company (the insurance company covering a person who hit you), even if that company is the same as yours, are subject to different restrictions. A third-party company is allowed to recommend a particular repair shop, but still cannot require its use. As a matter of fact, recently the NYS Department of Insurance conducted an investigation into this practice. They found that certain insurance companies were making claims that “the work of independent shops (read – your body shop) might not be guaranteed or fully covered, or overpriced or that the work will be unduly delayed”. Do not fall for these scare tactics. Remember you are the customer who pays them and have the right to stay in control.
- The only parts which should be used to repair your car are those equal to the OEM or those originally on your vehicle. The use of imitation parts could void a portion of your warranty or devalue your vehicle. Always inquire which parts will be used during repairs.
In our next blog, we’ll discuss choosing a quality body shop as well as differentiating between top notch vs. mediocre work. Until next time, may the wind be always at your back!
Over the last several years, a few technological developments have surfaced such as wheel cleaners bleeding red when exposed to iron particles to semi-permanent glass coatings. Right now, ceramic coatings seem to be the topic of conversation in the detailing world and separate fact from hype.
These coatings are usually labeled as “Glass”, “Ceramic”, “Quartz” or “Nano” coatings. For the sake of simplicity, let’s just call them coatings. All are basically a fancy way of saying the same thing. What are these coatings? How are they different from waxes and sealants? What are their benefits?
True coatings are very different than the traditional carnauba waxes and synthetic sealants you are familiar with. They are formulated on a molecular level and are much more expensive to manufacture. Think of them as a semi-permanent artificial clear-coat that goes on top of your factory paint and takes all the abuse and UV rays instead of the paint below. Unfortunately, as with many new products, comes the hype. Unrealistic claims include lifetime durability (can you say Ginsu knives?), preventing paint chipping, etc. Some companies are just adding the term ceramic, nano, etc. to regular sealants to make them sound more attractive to the end user. True coatings usually come in small bottles of 1-1.5 oz. because they start to cure when exposed to air and will harden in the bottle if not used in the proper time window.
The major benefits of the coatings are their durability, gloss and hardness. The claimed life durability range anywhere from 1 year to 5 years (notwithstanding the life-time claims). Ceramic coatings are also highly resistant to chemicals; meaning that if you want to remove them, you would have to polish them off. The high end coatings display a highly reflective “glass like” look similar to a candy apple. The durability and gloss is increased with layering. They are also harder than your clear-coat (or paint if your car is older and you have single-stage paint) and can reduce the micro-marring (swirls marks). The side benefit people most often notice after application is the self-cleaning characteristic of the coatings. Because they are usually highly “hydrophobic” (a fancy way of saying they shed water very well), your car stays much cleaner and spot free even after a rain storm.
Although they were originally developed for use on paintwork, coatings work incredibly well on wheels, exterior glass, chrome and other non-porous surfaces. At our shop, the recommended “New car prep.” is the application of the coatings to the paintwork, wheels and glasswork. Some manufacturers are even making coatings for leather, fabric and rubber/plastic trim. We also use the coatings extensively on paint protection film (AKA “Clear Bra”).
With all the benefits of coatings, comes the work. They are much more challenging to properly apply than waxes or sealants. The paint (or any surface to be coated) has to be perfectly cleaned of all waxes, silicones, or any residue. Once the coating is applied, each layer needs to be cured in a proper environment before being exposed to the environment (usually with infrared heat lamps to accelerate the process).
With all the added benefits and work involved, the coatings obviously cost a bit more than a wax job. The price of application will vary depending on the prep. involved, size of the vehicle as well as the number of coats applied. Usually the biggest variable is the name on the box. Some companies spend a ton of money hyping their products up, putting them in fancy boxes or getting celebrities in the detailing world to endorse their products. While the quality of the product does vary, the price disparity of some products are completely out of this world. Now the question you’re asking is your head is “Are the coatings are worth it”? Given the amount of time and maintenance it saves you, as well as the stellar looks they provide, for the majority of you the answer is an unequivocal yes.
What’s the best way for you, the consumer, to choose the best coating for your car? Simple, find a detail shop with a stellar reputation whom you trust and get their feedback. Ask them what coatings they have experimented with as well as why they recommend one over the others. What the warranties are and the fine print associated with them. Some manufacturers offer 10 year to a lifetime warranty, but you are obligated to pay for an application of a refresher coat every 6 months. My math may be off, but that’s a 6 month warranty. Finally, compare the cost to make an educated choice that’s right for you.
This year we had a lot to be grateful for. As we get ready for the end of the year, we like to reflect on our favorite memories (and our favorite cars) from the past year.
Here are a few cars we worked on that we absolutely loved!
Matt's Pick - Iso Grifo
Eddie's Pick - Porsche GT4 Clubsport
Andrew's Pick - Ultraviolet Porsche GT3 RS
Nicole's Pick - McLaren P1
Henry's Pick - Porsche 911R
Josue's Pick - "Every silver car" (so here's four)
Erbin's Pick - Porsche 997 GT3
Piotr's Pick - Porsche GT4
Mark's Pick - Pagani Huayra
Ashley's Pick - McLaren MP4
Marco's Pick - McLaren P1
Vadim's Pick - Mercedes Benz E63 AMG
What were some of your favorite cars from this year?
Happy Holidays to you and yours from the team at Detailing Dynamics.
Here's to the end of 2016! Cheers to 2017!
This DyNa Paintwork Shampoo is a special breed of car wash that exhibits exceptional lubricity and will even help prevent water spots while washing in direct sunlight. While safely removing dirt and rinsing off clean, it allows your car’s smooth wax coating to stay in place.
Before using the Paintwork Shampoo, rinse the surface thoroughly to remove as much dirt from the paint as possible. This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint could develop from washing as time goes on. Always work from top to bottom. A little of this shampoo goes a long way, so be cautious of using too much and risking the possibility of leaving residue if not rinsed off completely. When washing panels, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines. Remember never to press or try to scrub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can't see if you're scratching the paint, just let the chemical do its job! Use at least two sponges/mitts while washing- one for the top and another for the bottom. Contrary to popular belief, rinsing each portion of the car after shampooing isn't the best way to go because if it happens to be a warm day, the water will begin to dry and you run the chance of creating water spots. If the Paintwork Shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that!
Our revolutionary “liquid shine” picks up where other instant detailers leave off. Not only does it enhance the shine, but it actually cleans and protects the surface being treated with a concentration of our DyNA Brilliance ™ high gloss sealant. Liquid Gloss is designed to be used right after washing your automobile or after each of polishing/waxing steps. It’s safe to use on any non-porous surface and is great for paint, glass, chrome, plastic convertible windows, and interior wood/metal/carbon fiber trim.
We customized this beautiful Ultraviolet Porsche GT3 RS. We fully wrapped the exterior with XPEL Ultimate Paint Protection Film! We then refinished the lower rocker panels, front and rear bumper lower splitters, mirrors upper housings, rear wing posts, rear wing sides, and interior door trim strips in a custom painted lava orange vinyl.
We installed custom designed exterior graphics. The brake calipers were stripped by media blast and then powder coated in lava orange. The same process was repeated in order to powder coat the wheels in satin black.
Lava orange "GT3 RS" decals were custom made for the side doors.
We installed a custom Beltronics STi-R Plus high performance stealth defense radar system, an AL Priority Quad HiFi laser jammer system with mirror display, and a NAV-TV back up camera integration system.
A custom iPhone 6 Plus phone holder, GMG RSR Roll Bar, Harness Bar, and Submarine Strap Mount were also installed!
This gorgeous blue Porsche GT3 RS came into our shop to have some XPEL Ultimate Paint Protection Film installed.
XPEL's special clear coat not only prevents the film from discoloring due to contamination and ultra-violet radiation, but also heals itself from swirl marks and light scratches that can occur through ordinary washing and drying or daily driving.
A three step custom exterior detail was done before applying the film. The detail included a fine paint clay to remove embedded contaminants, polishing with our DyNA Ultimate Cleaner, appling our DyNA Prep Bond and Brilliance paint sealant, and then a final detail. We also spot compounded a few rear bumper scuffs
After the detail, we installed the paint protection film on the front bumper, full hood, full fenders, side sills and door steps, rear wheel arches, and fog lights.